‘Le Football’ By John-Michael Papirchuk

I often claim the value of my life depends on the memories accumulated to this very moment, as I breathe and write these words.   Someone perhaps wiser will tell you to forget the past and live in the present, and I’ll not argue, if you happen to be young, really young.  ’Le Football’ is a personal story that reminds me of a pivotal time in my life, the early years in this country and how poignantly the lesson was forcibly learned that not a single soul ought ever  be uprooted from place of birth, no matter what, not for political reasons (even if compelling at the time) and most certainly not for economic considerations.  Indeed one can grow a reasonable facsimile of a banana tree in an indoor pot and even grow fruit, but they’ll be puny and lackluster in taste in comparison to the tropical tree. Parents have a moral obligation to nurture and raise their children on their own native soil, period.   A harsh judgment but one I stand by.

‘Le Football’

Paris – Icons

Elsewhere I’ve posted ‘Paris – Ville Lumière‘ and the interest it garnered has resulted in a pointed prod to produce another photographic essay that concentrates on iconic images of that splendid city. If you have good walking shoes, the time and the stamina, Paris offers a plethora of grand architectural and historic buildings, around almost every corner a charming, oft unexpected site, whether a flowered garden, a statue and fountain or a mouth-watering food stall in a neighborhood street ‘marché’ that caters to the fastidious eating habits of Parisians.  I will not offend by identifying the obvious, such as the Tour Eiffel or Notre Dame, however, now and then I’ll add a dash of spices, tidbits of interesting information perhaps useful to make your future foray to ‘La ville lumière‘ more  pleasurable.  Bon voyage!

Astride ‘La Butte Montmartre’, fabled domain of the artistic and bohemian, the Basilique du Sacré Coeur keeps a watchful eye over its people.

This grand view above allows me to offer a really fine bit of advice to the future visitor.  It’s taken from the rooftop patio at the shopping mecca known collectively as Printemps and Les Gallery Lafayette.  There’s no entry fee and it offers the best photographic vista, all around, of what’s interesting to be seen in Paris, as shown in the photos below.
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The Centre Pompidou (center) the foremost tourist magnet in all of Paris; when you consider what it comes ahead, Notre Dame and the Tour Eiffel, just to name two, it’s quite a compliment to its successful incorporation of several cultural venues.  The new city library and the largest museum of modern art in Europe are but two of the attractions in this ‘high-tech’  design that ‘turned modern architecture on its head’.  
The Place Georges Pompidou in front of the museum is particularly noted for eclectic and often novel entertainment, mimes, jugglers, bands, street performers; offered for a small donation, freely given I might add, relaxed crowds gawk and applaud on any given day.
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This clever fellow created humongous soap balloons – imagine back to the time when you’d have given up all your precious toys for that kind of magical power. Check out the rapt expressions on the children, and the not so young.  For a brief moment the young lady fancies her chance of capturing a bit of bubble magic.
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In colorful Mongolian garb a trio set up in front of Le Centre Pompidou  to present authentic ‘throat’ singing accompanied by fine musicianship on traditional instruments.  If you’ve not heard this complex and unique form of singing go to Youtube and type in ‘Mongolian throat singing’, you’ll get several choices.  Amazing!
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Paris is a shopper’s delight – street vendors offer a cornucopia of goods come from the four corners of the world, Africa in particular.  Dior luxury goods and of course world renowned brand names in fashion and food.
On the Champs Elysées, luxurious outlets co-exists now with the mundane, such as McDonalds and Burger King.  No photos of them in my camera, needless to point out.
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Paris offers the best and most varied  entertainment one can imagine.  At almost every street corner or ‘place‘ you’ll discover  talented artists plying their trade in return for a voluntary donation on your part.  Below, this woman plays a manual organ, hand-cranked with vigor while singing with verve traditional songs associated with the incomparable Edit Piaf.
The lissome accordionist is found on the Place du Tertre a stone’s throw from the Sacré Coeur; if you want to hear a fine rendition of the  theme from ‘Emilie’ and other golden oldies, check her out.
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A jazz band up for the week-end from the south of France served up an upbeat and fun performance in front, appropriately enough, of the Académie Nationale de Musique.
City Hall and the ubiquitous carousel, a children’s delight seen everywhere in France.
L’Arc de Triomphe du  Carrousel’ looking from the nearby Louvre up the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe at the top, both built to commemorate Napoleon’s victories.   The obelisk (also due to Napoleon’s military excursion to Egypt) is visible about half-way.  A splendid stroll by any standard that can be named, anywhere.
From atop  the ‘Arc de Triomphe’ a comely visitor captures a souvenir photo looking down Les Champs Elysées; at the top end of the photo, the Louvres museum.  The Eiffel Tower shows up from almost any angle anywhere within the city.
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The Louvre and it’s iconic pyramid entrance, once an object of controversy now a proud symbol of architectural imagination melded with practicality.
From the concourse outside a peek at ancient sculptures cleverly displayed.
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This young couple in the ‘Jardin des Tuileries’ somehow couldn’t find enough free room on a bench; they opted to share the same space, vertically.  Nice!
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La Conciergerie, a historic building that includes the remains of the oldest royal palace in Paris, dating to the beginning of the 14th Century.  Later displaced in favour of  the Louvre as the royal residence, it’s located on the historic and charming Ile de la Cité, the island in the middle of the River Seine just up from Notre Dame.  Today it houses the Prefecture de Paris police and various legal offices and trial courts.
On the Pont Neuf, a glittering bridge spanning the Seine leading to the Left Bank and in the background the Invalides, a fine military museum displaying memorabilia of past wars and especially Napoleon’s impressive tomb.
When I checked out this photo the results were rather surprising – first of all I couldn’t quite fathom other than the Obelisk in the Place de La Concorde what were the other two buildings.  ’Mon grand ami‘ set me straight; the second building with the columns was the ‘Palais de Bourbon’ where the French Assembly meet and in the background the Invalides.  What had thrown me was the fact the Seine River flows just in front of the Palais but it’s not visible and I wouldn’t have guessed except he lives permanently in Paris.  Lucky fellow!
In front of the imposing Pantheon where the ‘great and noble’ of France are honored in final homage.  Of great interest it’s where Foulcault set his famous instrument, a pendulum that proved the existence of the earth’s rotation – check it out it’s still doing its thing without a hick-cup.  It’s impressive and for me at least, a hint to understanding our home planet’s incredibly precise ride though the cosmos.
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The Palais du Luxembourg is the seat of the French Senate.  However, it is best know for  a 25-hectare formal garden populated by statues, ‘parterres’ of green lawns and stately treed aisles for leisure strolls.  There are large basins of water where children (of all ages) sail model sailboats; there’s also an apple and pear orchard and an excellent ‘théatre des marionettes’.  For those with a nostalgic bent (mea culpa) I recommend finding a Joe Dassin rendition of a splendid “Le Jardin du Luxembourg‘ and if you’re like me listen and allow yourself a heartfelt sigh.  He was the much loved troubadour of an entire generation of the young and the young at heart.  RIP Joe.
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Methinks I’ll now listen to Joe reminding me of a time when life was simpler and notions of friendship and love weren’t looked upon as the domain of romantic, emotional fools.   That’s it for now mes amis.  Next time I’ll take you along to Nancy and Reims.   A bientôt!

La Kermesse à Ay-Champagne

La Kermesse à Ay-Champagne

Cloud Catcher

CLOUD  CATCHER

Recently I was rummaging through stacks of long forgotten bits of prose, poems and notes to myself, fodder for future stories.  Some material puzzled me; one in particular entitled Pica Luna.  Just a few terse hand-written lines to describe a young, brave, female Antarctic penguin and what event she was central in its happening.  I became all excited remembering what I considered a great idea with a pulsating plot and exciting dénouement.  Trouble soon reared its ugly head – for the life of me I couldn’t remember exactly what it was all about, no matter how hard I prodded my brain.  Damn, why didn’t I set down more copious notes? When I first had the idea it was so vividly clear I imagined a few lines would be sufficient to awaken my memory when time came to set it all down.  Unfortunately one thing led to another, two or three trips abroad, a markedly changed set of life circumstances and a dozen years later it resurfaces as an idea without flesh and blood, much like a ghostly appearance without earthly essence.  Never again will I be so prodigal with a good story in its early stages; henceforth I’d nurture the seed to harvest the good fruit.

Similarly I discovered an essay written by one of my former students.  Attractive and bright, she had a pronounced artistic bend and ultra-sensitivity that was almost palpable.  I was totally taken in by her tale, enraptured is not too strong a word and it became the genesis for one of my own ‘fairy tales’ that I would entitle ‘Little Lost Cloud’.  (Dear reader, you can find it elsewhere in this blog, under the general heading of Fables from the Moonlight Garden)

Once again reading her story over reawakened the enchantment and powerful emotions I’d felt the first time around.  With a very few judicious edits I offer it very much as it was offered to me.  Nami, it’s my way to express my gratitude for a short and sweet but memorable episode in my life.

Clouds – ‘God’s Breath’

If you know anything about me you’ll know I was born in the scenic Champagne area of France, more particularly in a small town appropriately named Ay-Champagne.   Elsewhere I’ve detailed the  wonderful youthful memories  I cling to and hold close to my heart so that when I had recently decided to post a new photographic essay based on my favourite ‘cloud’ photos, an ancient memory resurfaced and I’ll confess it ran shivers down my spine.  I had decided on a title: Clouds – ‘Heavenly Drifters’ and was quite satisfied as I lifted it from a poem I’d  penned long, long ago.  And yet, late at night, unable to sleep, I was musing about which photos I might use when of a sudden my father’s clear and distinct voice whispered , “God’s breath.”  I sat up straight.  Yes, of course, how could I have forgotten?

In a small, agricultural community it’s a common occurrence to see children visit their fathers working in the fields, or in our case in the hilly vineyards that provided the backdrop (and prosperity) to our town.   Often after school, if I wasn’t kicking a football (soccer for you American readers) around, I might take it in my head to go see what my father was up to and if perhaps he’d found something of interest for me. Indeed, numerous times during a break from back-breakingt toil he’d taken the trouble to forage for fruit in season, cherries, pears, wild plums, even the elusive quince after the first frost.  Very occasionally there might be a couple of delicious Chardonnay grapes but only if they were what we called ‘fumée’ that is the skin took on a smoky hue and you’d be lucky to find three such grapes in an entire vineyard.  Failing that he’d always kept a little bit of his lunch carefully wrapped in his knapsack.  I’d rummage through wondering what I might discover then  I’d eagerly wolf down that tidbit as if it came from a royal table.  Once he’d brought home  four orphan leverets,  another time it was a duckling with broken wing and numerous birds in particular a splendid, much  loved magpie.  (Elsewhere in this blog you might read ‘Mack the Magpie’.)

Here’s how what today I consider a wonderful ‘tournure de phrase’ came about.  As long as I could remember every night for a few minutes I’d lay down next to my father who always went to bed soon after the evening meal and after having listened to the latest news on the radio.  He regularly got up at five a.m. a not unusual  hour for anyone who works in the vineyards or for that matter elsewhere in the outdoors.  I’d get cozy under his arm, quietly lay there and wait for him to tell me a story.  He was a consummate story teller, using different voices and either recounting events from his own youth (in Galicia, then a part of Poland), some true to life others wildly imaginary or inventing a new, fanciful tale just for me.   Sometimes when he was out of ideas and that was unusual he’d say, “Today I’m a bit tired.  So you tell me about your day, how was school? Did you have fun with your friends?”  And I’d eagerly try to emulate him, trying to entertain him for a change.

One day when I’d run, skipped and hopped my way up to the vineyard where I knew my father would be found, a strange cloud formation drifted into view rising above the green forest that protected from harsh northerly winds the precious ‘vignoble d’Ay’.   They were smallish, round, white clouds drifting into view in what seemed a perfectly aligned row.  Ten or twelve and then nothing but blue sky.  ”Oh, look Papa, look at these funny clouds, they look like smoke puffs from the train locomotive.”   Dad adjusted the beret on his head, looked up, squinted for a moment seemingly weighing his answer, then he set me straight, “No son, that’s God’s breath.”  Well, that was new to me and just a tad dubious I enquired, “How do you know that?”

He took the time to hug me first and then explained.  ”You see, it’s quite obvious God was out for a jog and now He’s puffing and that’s the result.  These clouds are a result of His breath.”  Dad offered a mischievous smile, “Hmmm… He must be a bit out of shape to huff and puff like that.”

Needless to say I took it for God’s truth, after all this information came from my personal God and I was perhaps not more than five years old, a time when the word of an adult, a parent no less, was unquestioned.

As the days and years passed by even when I’d grown old enough and learned at school about the different types of cloud formations and what one might expect in the way of weather for the next few hours, I’d still ask my father how God might be feeling that particular day.  On a day when we were just about caught by a violent rainstorm we were hurrying down the hillsides trying to beat the impeding drenching home.  ”What’s God up to?”  I called out as we were jogging down.

“Oh boy, somebody’s going to catch hell.  He’s really miffed at somebody or at something.  I wouldn’t want to be anywhere near Him right now.”  As a punctuation, just then a fiery bolt of lighting streaked across the sky and a thunder clap that seemed so close I gave out with a puppy yelp.  Dad squeezed my hand hard but now I suppose it was to put my mind off the ominous rumblings of more to come that he actually stopped and cupping my chin in his hand earnestly asked.  ”Say, have you been a good boy lately? He’s not mad at you, is He?”

Oh, no, did that have to do with me filching a few apricots on my way up?  Thinking therefore acting like an innocent lamb I answered as forthrightly as I knew how, “Ah, non, Papa, I’ve been good and you know I serve mass every morning at 6 a.m. without fail and always on time.”

“Whew! That’s a relief as that last bit of fireworks had me a little worried.  Too close for my liking.  Let’s get home to your mother or she’ll be sick with worry, you know her.”

Allow me an aside here, for your information Dad didn’t approve of my early morning dedication to serving as an altar boy but here’s  the proof positive that no one is more Catholic than a Polish mother – my own mother thought it wonderful that her darling might actually sprout angel’s wings.  In all other aspects she was more fiercely protective than a mother hen but when it came to serving God, nothing was off limits including me getting up at the crack of dawn since I was apparently of all the boys I knew the only one willing to do so.  And that too proves there’s no such thing as an ‘unwilling’ victim.

Mind you in my day at St. Brice parish altar boys were paid for serving at mass.  There was a going rate for a low mass, high mass was more remunerative so were weddings  and the most sought out gig was a christening, on top of a generous tip by proud parents, and not to be outdone in generosity the God-mother and God-father added to the bonanza. and that wasn’t all,  there were scads of delicious sugar-coated almonds stuffed in cornets of pink if it was a girl or blue for a boy.  Once I hit the absolute jackpot of all times by serving seven consecutive christenings on the same day.  I was seven years old then and lorded it over my school pals by dolling out ‘dragées‘ for the next couple of weeks.  A maharajah couldn’t have been more regal or blasé about his munificence.  Rampant popularity waned and petered out as the supply ran dry.  An early lesson in the old ‘what have you done for me lately?’

Incidentally, funerals were the most miserable of all to serve, muted sobs, the occasional bone-chilling wail, then leading with a heavy cross held aloft a dreary long procession to the cemetery.  The gloomy affair paid not much more than for a morning mass and the bereaved were almost always too overwrought to remember the altar boy, the sacristan and bell ringer. Oy!

Of course I eventually learned that Nimbus were at times an awesome treat promising displays of pyrotechnics in lighting bolts and cacophonous thunder claps sure to scare the ‘beejees’ out of my mother (much to my delight).  There were the lofty, thin as a gossamer veil Cirrus clouds that Dad would delightedly ascribe to, “God is having a pleasant nap.   See He’s breathing nice and calm as can be.”

My father was as close to nature as a man could ever be; it was a quasi-religious devotion for he loved every moment spent outdoors, observing and doing his bit to ‘assist Mother Nature in her life giving work’.  No one to my knowledge could eke out more veggies and fruit trees from a backyard garden.  When he had a couple of acre garden on his sister’s farm the variety of tomatoes alone prompted my uncle to invite other farmers to see what he’d grown. He’s now up there among the clouds and speculating how God might be feeling on a particular day.

And so, since ever I can remember and ‘remembrance’ is now wearing the mantle of a  longish, epic journey, I was fascinated by clouds.  ”Boy, get your head out of the clouds,” was an admonishment I heard often enough much to my annoyance.  However, it’s true even as a young lad I disliked boring. clear blue days, but enjoyed the passing clouds and always looking up imagine what a particular cloud might be the mirror image of that which it overflew.  Oh, this one has the odd shape of England and that one a perfect copy of the Italian boot – by Jove! It’s aiming a swift kick at England, the cheeky beggars.

Of course some cloud types were much better for such speculation, for example Strato Cumulus were more artistically inclined than the lofty, airy Cirrus;  I was so infatuated with clouds I even penned a couple of poems.  Since poetry is the ultimate in subjective writing I wouldn’t hazard a guess as to their quality and thus they may perhaps best remain in the realm of ‘anonymous’.   Not so long ago I wrote a pseudo fairy tale entitled ‘Little Lost Cloud’.  You can find it elsewhere on this blog.

Over the years I have collected photos of my favourite cloud formations as I traveled here, there and elsewhere.  Allow me to share my affection for our heavenly companions.  The photographs I offer span several decades and in different countries.  When I remember the exact location I’ll indicate otherwise it will be an approximation.  In a poem I describe clouds as ‘heavenly drifters, rootless and country-less’ and it shouldn’t really matter where they were captured for a brief moment.  Oh, by the way, isn’t that where our personal Guardian Angel rests after a hard day’s work?

On my way to Paris, clouds that I imagined were hugging close for warmth, somewhere above the  North Atlantic ocean.

I like this photo for the clouds and the weathered  stone tile roof, near Bû, an oddly named  small town in France.

What would otherwise be a mundane photo of a chateau’s manicured lawn takes on a dramatic overtone provided by dark,  threatening clouds.

In the same neighborhood – the background makes one forget  the ‘frontman’.

Somewhere in the Piedmont, northern Italy.  One of my all-time favs.

Idyllic Holland, where else?

Paris – naturellement.  The cloud backdrop is perfectly suited to the statue.

In Corsica.  Can’t see the clouds? Must be above as it’s still drizzling on the bucolic lane heading home.  No technicalities, please.

Across from my window – Lost Lagoon in Vancouver’s Stanley Park.

And there she is, my ‘Little Lost Cloud’.  She’s alive and doing well somewhere above your head.

English Bay, Vancouver.

North Vancouver across Burrard Inlet seen from Stanley Park’s seawall.

Somewhere in France

In Bavaria on my way to lovely Fussen and the fabled Neusweinstein Castle

 

The splendid castle built by the ‘inspired’ Ludwig II, a much more appropriate tag than the snotty ‘mad’ all too often attached to his name.  The French poet Paul Verlaine called him the “only true king of this century” . The shy dreamer bequeathed this airy fairy tale edifice for generations of visitors flocking from all corners of the world and via Walt Disney’s whimsical rendition to millions others.

Different architectural style from above in Bavaria to Quebec Province, but either way God can’t be unhappy with the appearance of his  house.

Sublime, spectacular, splendid Mont Saint Michel, in Normandy

Wild flower field in Bretagne

Above Dinard and the ‘Promenade au Clair de Lune’ –  below the Flemish style roof of Beaune Hospice (first hospital in Europe) and Chateau Chambord final residence for exiled Leonardo da Vinci

Two of my favourite pics taken on the grounds of Chambord

At the behest of a dear friend I’ll  after all offer my poem.  As I’ve cautioned at the onset of this post I guarantee nothing; good, bad or indifferent it’s as I saw and felt it so many years ago.

Clouds

Clouds in procession, aloof and oblivious
exotic caravans plodding across the sky
ferrying the burden of memories
across the desert in my heart
blasted clouds, shattered dreams
rainy days, sad refrain.

But look!  A burst of sun
for one magic instant
transforms a lost wandered
to a star-bound palace
where in a secret place
my ancient joys are kept.

Too soon a wanton gust
scatters illusions of happy sails
homeward bound, homeward bound
brooding blood brothers to my soul
as a dreary mist drooping to earth
so too Melancholia, my confidante, my enemy.

A palette worthy of Renoir colours the Kootenay Rockies in British Columbia – photos taken five kilometres from Montana border.

Copyright@Vancouver, October 27, 2012 John-Michael Papirchuk

Strasbourg

MAGNIFICENT, SPLENDID, UNIQUE, UNFORGETTABLE  STRASBOURG!

Strasbourg! One of my very favourite destinations any time in Europe.   Magnificent, prosperous Strasbourg, historically craved over  is located  at the far eastern reaches of France with Germany sitting across the mighty Rhine strategically astride a pathway for invading armies since recorded time.  The Strabourgois are hard-working, clever and adaptable to the vagaries of historic situations including decades under German rule.  In fact, the local dialect is very much a blend of German and is still often spoken by the older generation among themselves.  Strasbourg’s solid infrastructure and strategic location, a hub of transportation to and from the eastern countries of Europe,  has made it a logical choice to become the future capital of a united Europe, and it is already the seat of many international pan-European organizations.  Strasbourg’s future is as rosy as the superb stained glass rose (above) gracing their much beloved cathedral.

Construction on Our Lady of Strasbourg started in 1176 and continued for the next three centuries. The  magnificent Gothic cathedral boasts of the tallest spire in all of Europe,  in fact from 1647 to 1874 it was the tallest man-made structure in the world.

The cathedral described by Victor Hugo as “A gigantic and delicate marvel” is central to the pride of the Alsacian people.  Twin towers were planned but unfortunately the second spire was never started.  In moments of idle dreaming I have wondered why couldn’t it be constructed now? There are more than enough billionaires on this planet with more than enough loose change to gather together a ‘dream team’ of historians, architects, stone masons, artisans, sculptors, creators of stained glass windows and all of the educated ‘hands’ required to create a splendid monument to glorify the past and bring hope to the present.  I wonder why there isn’t a single one out there with the imagination to donate such a gift to the world? Forlorn hope, in a world where making and piling up  money is single-mindedly pursued, there isn’t such an inspired, noble mind.  A sublime imagination or a philanthropic love of culture is a non-starter.  Quel domage – too bad!

Just imagine the second tower to celebrate the new millenia (a decade or so already down the road but still early in relative terms) when mankind starts to finally get it!  What’s ‘it’ you may rightfully wonder – ‘it’ in this case is respect of what’s best in mankind’s cultural and artistic creativity accompanied by human nobility of spirit.

An iconic building in great repair a stone’s throw from the cathedral.

When I was a child I’d been told about the ‘cigogne‘ (stork) that brought babies to their new homes; I’d even seen lots of illustrations so it had to be true, right? Imagine my excitement the first time I saw a couple of real honest to goodness ‘cigognes’ in a lush meadow spearing frogs for breakfast (no bad jokes, please) just a few kilometres from Strasbourg.  I spotted them from the corner of my eye and by the time I was able to make a u-turn a couple kliks down the road to take photos much to my chagrin they’d flown off.  Welcomed as harbingers of good fortune, the magnificent bird had traditionally nested atop chimneys throughout Alsace but they’d almost disappeared until dedicated hard work and loving care rescued them from the edge of extinction.  Here for centuries one is seen   dispensing good luck to  Strasbourg from a choice perch on the cathedral.

It’s easy to get around Strasbourg as it’s an eminently walkable city but if you’re feeling lazy a modern transportation system will whisk you to destination.  Notice the bicycle paths along side the tram tracks.

Arriving in Strasbourg I was following the signs indicating the cathedral, thus the old town and as usual I had no idea where to spend the night.  Judging I was getting close I grabbed the first available parking spot and as luck would have it, the car stayed put for the next three days.  Better still a few steps away I notice a hotel and before you know it I’d also found fine lodgings at a reasonable price, a good view from the window and within walking distance of La Petite France and the cathedral.  I may as well tell you I almost never (except when traveling for working purposes) book accommodations ahead of time when I’m on the road.  Why is that? I trust on my good star to lead me to a great place within my budget and with something special to offer.  Let me also admit on occasion I’ve had to work hard to find just what would smile at me – I have no problem checking out four, five or even more hotels before making a decision.  I also have no embarrassment about returning to one I passed on earlier.  I deem finding the right place is worth almost any effort, furthermore if I really am happy I can stay longer and that’s a bonus.  Okay, I’ll admit there have been times when I couldn’t find anything at any price because there’s a convention going on or some other popular event and I’ve even had to move on to another town, but that’s not happened too often and in fact sometimes worked out even better by exploring an unforeseen town.   This method of finding a bed to lay your head on is not recommended for those who like to travel on a fixed schedule and agenda but that’s not for me as I have at times (often) found myself not only in a different town but also in a different country.  Oh, it’s not a big deal if you’re free and have the fanciful notion of going where the wind (figuratively) blows you and Europe is the place to do such for the distances are rather smallish if you come from Canada.  One particular time (I was younger and I love driving) I left San Marino early when the sun was peering over the horizon, drove through northern Italy, across a slice of Switzerland, through a bit of Germany, dashed through northwest France, sped across Luxembourg and found myself watching a great game of football (soccer) at my hotel’s lobby with friendly companions in Knokke in Belgium.  Let’s see that’s seven countries in one day, not bad!

The view from my bedroom, notice the cathedral’s spire about a pleasant 15 minute’s walk with interesting buildings and sights on the way.

A rather banal pic but notice the bidet, a fixture found in any half-decent hotel in Europe.  Have North America’s hoteliers heard of its convenient hygienic properties? I was introduced to the ‘bidet’ in an hilarious episode in Henry Miller’s ‘Tropic of Cancer’.  Already living in Canada I had to wait for my first trip to France to actually discover it in a modest one star hotel in Paris.  I was thrilled and sat there laughing my head off remembering the discomfiture of the man who mistook it for a proper toilet and found out it simply wouldn’t flush as he’d expected.  The entire novel is worth reading for that alone although it was the book that made me realize an extensive vocabulary as well as being an indispensable communication tool is a thing of beauty.

View from the hotel room – lucky me.

At night it was so beautifully illuminated as most architecturally important and striking buildings are throughout Europe.

To the right of my wide open window the view was also splendidly illuminated – a dream land that charmed my eyes while awaiting slumber after a long, happy day.

One of the best activities a visitor can indulge in is to savour a fine Alsatian beer in one of the many outdoor cafes in  La Petite France, a beautiful slice of historic Strasbourg.  In the evening there are dozens of fine restaurants from which to chose,  I opted for one that featured sauerkraut, roast potatoes and smoked sausages nicely eased  down with steins of  cold local blonde beer.

Strasbourg’s historic city centre, the ‘Grande Isle’ was classified a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988, the first time such an honour was placed on an entire city centre. Strasbourg is fused into the Franco-German culture and although violently disputed throughout history, has been a bridge of unity between France and Germany for centuries, especially through the ‘Université de Strasbourg‘ presently the largest in France, and the peaceful coexistence of Catholic and Protestant culture.

The boatman speeds home after a day ferrying tourists around the delightful waterways that crisscross the city.  It was time for me to reluctantly leave behind enchanting Strasbourg.  Until we meet again, aurevoir!

Beaune and Dijon

A newly-opened stretch of ‘auto-route‘ leading towards Beaune, the famed Burgundy wine town, early in the morning and yes, I tested the Renault’s ability to move along and that it did – and before you tsk-tsk as soon as it hit the 200 kph (120 mph) I immediately eased up on the accelerator.
 The anticipation of fine wine tasting and excellent cuisine spurred me on – couldn’t get there fast enough.  Yeah, the devil made me do it!
Autoroutes’ are ‘péage‘, it costs but if you are in a hurry it pays in saved time and in less fuel spent. ‘Départment’ is the French equivalent of a province or American state, of course nothing close to the same size territory but often with a larger population.  Generally, when possible I look for the D signs indicating a regional road to travel from town to town and I’m never disappointed as you wander through the ancient ways and byways of what the  French refer to as ‘La France Profonde‘, or alternatively ‘Douce France‘.  Indeed the finest of what this superlatively endowed country offers is often in small, out of the way towns and villages.  Getting there is half the fun too.

Somewhere on the way from Blois, one of a multitude of well-preserved fortified chateaus that dot the French country side – I don’t even know the name.

Vineyards here, there and everywhere –  there’s something soothing in the  orderly, symmetrical  rows going up a gentle slope framed by a wooded backdrop.  I always find reassurance in such scenery; must have  to do with my familiarity with such panorama from my childhood years in Ay-Champagne.

Beaune is the capital of the justly celebrated ‘Vin de Bourgogne‘ and of course the culinary world dotes on  heavenly Dijon mustard.   Both of  these towns boast of a unique, rich and varied cultural heritage that should make a visit a must on any serious traveler’s agenda.  Beaune is south of Dijon, a little over 30 kilometres and going to or from  it winds its way along the famous ‘Route de Grand Crus’.  Remnants from medieval times are abundant and walking the streets a pleasant dip in the limpid pool  of days past.

Medieval city gate ‘Porte Saint Nicolas’ in Beaune is one of the many monuments and buildings the city preserves with care and pride.

Burgundy domaine names that are sure to pass any wine ‘connaisseurs’ lips, figuratively and literally with blissful pleasure and anticipation.
Beaune has a plethora of reputed wine merchants where one can taste the wines ‘gratis‘ before making a decision on which of the fine ‘cru‘ to buy – warning, some of the prices do require a sober judgment but the quality of course is ‘impeccable!‘ It’s a sensual pleasure every one should indulge in no matter how much it pinches your wallet.  You only live once and surely you’d not pass up a slab of bbq pork ribs in Chattanooga, would you? Or turn down a beer in Pilsen, right? When in Rome do as the Romans, eat a good plate of pasta.
A  welcoming parochial church I passed by each day on my way to the ‘centre ville’.  Beaune I’ve visited on occasion before but it never fails to surprise and delight in new ways.
A medieval treasure is the Hospices de Beaune, also known as ‘Hôtel-Dieu’.  Built for the poor and sick at the end of the Hundred Years War in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin and his wife.  It features and instantly recognizable geometric glazed-tiled roof of interwoven red, green, brown and yellow tiles.  The generosity of the benefactors was emulated by other wealthy and powerful families in the region, notably Pommard, Nolay, Meursault so that collectively they have become known as the Hospices de Beaune.    It’s one of the finest example of 15th Century French architecture, this particular building referred to as an emblematic example of Flamboyant Gothic  - the facades facing the  main courtyard are eye-catching and unique.
 Huh… I have to come up with a different pose, you think?
A view of the main ward – would you believe it was in use until very recently when the last patients were transferred to a modern facility although still in use as a retirement home.  Indeed, it has presently been  transformed into a splendid museum endowed with some 5000 objet d’art and artistic treasures.
Undoubtedly the clean and comfortable convalescence  nooks where undreamed of luxury for the sick and downtrodden of ancient days.  The aptly named Sisters of Mercy must have appeared as Angels of Mercy, and surely they were heaven sent for the grateful patients.
At one end of the main ward an altar and chapel richly adorned with many artistic treasures among them a famous altar piece ‘The Last Judgment’ by Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden.
Each year since 1851, in November, a charity auction of wine kicks off a three day festival devoted to the food and wines of Burgundy.  The Domaine des Hospices de Beaune is a non-profit organization which owns 150 acres of donated vineyards, in Côte de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Pouilly-Fuissé, need I point out much of it classified Grand and Premier Cru.  The proceeds go to its charitable work in keeping with its long tradition of caring for the poor and sick.  Since 1905 the auction has been organized by famed Christie’s and it entices international bids from professional and private buyers.
The central fountain in Le vieux Dijon provides a meeting place for old and young alike – ancient buildings well preserved serve as a scenery backdrop and of course notice the ubiquitous carousel just behind .   Although Dijon is a fine city with an illustrious past it somehow slips below the radar of travelers to France (even the French somehow by-pass it);  go for it and I promise it will beguile the most jaded tourist.
An ancient medieval city Dijon is reputed as a focal point of French gastronomy (be sure to feast on coq au vin and sip on a delicious crème de cassis liqueur) as well as a lively university town thriving with world class art museums such as the Musée des Beaux-Arts.  Fortunately unlike the majority of large towns in the northern mid half of France it escaped major destruction in World War II, lucky for us who have the good ‘nose’ to find it on our journey.
Eglise Saint Michel in the background and another one, nameless I’m ashamed to admit, in the foreground.  There are churches around every corner in this town and as I was struck by the far one I neglected the nearest – mea culpa!
Eglise Saint Michel, an eye-catching and unusual architecture.
Beautiful stain glass adorn the main facade seen from the interior.
After Mt. St. Michel I meet the victorious archangel again in Dijon pitchforking the loser out of heaven and into the abyss of darkness.
Hey, I do have another pose – must remember it. Liberation Square in front of the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy in Dijon.
City Hall part of the complex Ducal palace where important matters are dealt with – example, getting hitched!
Getting married in Dijon is serious business – first you must pass identification procedures.  Perhaps giving the couple one last chance to change their minds?
Let joy reign supreme for now – the two walking away couldn’t care less.
And of course, THE world’s best mustard and where it all originated, right there, in that very same shop.
Oy, that pose, again!
The array of different flavored mustards would take a year to taste each and every one on a daily basis.  Yet, for the  pleasure of my taste buds nothing beats the ‘Dijon Originale’.  I use it as a condiment but often as the base for savoury sauces; generously dabbed on sautéed chunks of pork tenderloin or cheaper cuts of beef it will wring out flavour beyond your expectations.  Incidentally, don’t let on the secret to your dinner guests, it’s our to know and keep.
Dijon is a hub for cultural events celebrating a glorious tradition in arts and of course its illustrious viniculture.  Ducal banners from different ‘houses’ reminds one of the pomp and glamour associated with the wealthy proprietors of world-famed wines.
Notice there is no traffic on the street – how I wish we could emulate here in Vancouver this civilized concept where pedestrian traffic is favoured over noisy, polluting cars.  The banners are a reminder of past glories and present-day respect for its regional history.  That’s it for this short visit to Beaune and Dijon, more coming your way but as the song said – don’t know when, don’t know where but we’ll meet again, count on it.

Chateau II – “What a Man!”

What follows is a factual story recounted for your amusement as long as you solemnly make a promise (between you, me and our personal deity) to  read it without judgement or worse a raised-eyebrow cynical appraisal of my action.  If you can’t in the depth of  your heart do so, please close this post and move on.  The ‘dramatic’ event happened two decades ago, at the gloriously beautiful Château de Chenonceau.

This true anecdote may tickle your funny bone, or you may scratch your head and wonder about why a grown man would behave in such a manner.  Several years ago I and my traveling companion Hélène left the lovely town of Blois early for a quick start to what was planned as another stage in our private Tour de France.   It was exactly on the 19th of April, so she tells me; the sky was a radiant blue however unseasonably cool with a blustery wind adding a stinging bite to near frigid conditions.  The parking lot was some distance from the chateau and as we were walking my lovely friend who had donned a thin, spring jacket visibly displayed ed signs of discomfort by hugging herself and shivering.

Ever the gentleman I rescued her by offering my Coq Sportif ski jacket that I had been wise enough to choose for the day.  Well, we come up to the chateau and just as we are about to cross the bridge leading to the entrance, I suggest that I’d take a photo of her.  I turn to take a few steps back and almost immediately hear a heartfelt, “Oh, no!”  I wheeled around and she was  peering over the stone parapet into the moat some twenty feet below.  Looking down I see my jacket sedately floating down towards the Cher River not far off to the left.

(Twenty years later back to survey the scene – almost nothing changed except for definitely changed hair colour, damn!)

How did that happen? Always fastidious about her appearance (also a tad vain as are most attractive women), Hélène didn’t want to be wearing an over-sized jacket, removed it and set it some distance away atop the parapet.  As luck would have it a blast from a particularly petulant Zephyr blew it off.

Now what? As you can see from the photo, across the moat stairs lead down to the water’s edge.

A rowboat was tethered to the wall a little farther but obviously under lock and key – no joy there.  Without a clue as to what exactly I might do,  I ran down to the steps and that being as far as I could go I necessarily had to make what one might refer to as an ‘executive decision’.

First I put my hand in the water and it was as I feared – ice cold!  No matter, I make a mental calculation that if I felt anything really amiss, such as an incoming heart attack, I’d turn back.  Without further consideration lest I chickened out, I stripped down to my bikini briefs and gingerly so I wouldn’t get my hair wet slipped into the water; now with a stately breaststroke I set off on the rescue mission.  All the while I’m watching my jacket gently sailing down towards the swift flowing river but thankfully an air bubble was keeping it afloat.  I’d not have wanted to dive in after it.  Finally, I caught up to it (perhaps a distance of some 20 metres) and turning around I started back half tossing forward, half pushing it in front of me.  Oh, I forgot to mention that after the initial few strokes my briefs had slipped down to my knees I had no choice but to removed them and toss them back to where the rest of my clothes were piled up.

Remember we had been the very first car in the parking lot and in the heat of the action I’d not noticed newcomers had arrived on the scene – in fact it turned out to be three busloads of Japanese tourists.  They were now lined up on that same little bridge surely wondering about strange ‘gaijin‘ behaviour – perhaps a Spring Rites ritual?  I didn’t yet notice them but as I swam up to the steps Hélène was now waiting for me but so was a young blond woman who had shown up as well..  Sheesh, I’m stark naked, think I.  Well no matter, I’ll scramble up to the ledge backwards so she doesn’t get shocked by the ‘full monty’ but when I turn around there are about one hundred cameras aimed at me.  I decide one is better than a hundred fold and make my way out of the water offering a backside view to the 100 cameras.  (I vaguely hear a spattering of applause and even one cheeky wolf-whistle proving contrary to some opinions that the Japanese do have a sense of humor.) What a lovely young woman she turned out to be!  It took me a half-second to realize when she stepped forward she was holding a large, dry towel to wrap around my shoulders.  It turned out she was a backpacker from Switzerland and correctly surmised I’d need something to dry myself, especially in that temperature.

Apparently only mildly concerned, my navigator/companion was asking how I felt and just about then my entire body, from the top of my head to the tip of my toes started to tingle, something akin to having a million bees swarming all over me.  I said, “I feel fine except I’m wondering what is going on with my skin?”  In the meantime she and my good Samaritan were rubbing me down and in about 30 seconds as quickly as that strange sensation had come the tingling ceased.  I had by then put on my dry jeans and shirt and it wasn’t until some years later that I discovered that what I’d experienced was the onset of hypothermia.  After profusely thanking my benefactress we started back up when two uniformed guards from the castle rushed over and invited us to go inside the castle where a rip-roaring fire was  burning in the main chimney.  ”Venez vite, il y a un grand feu dans la cheminée pour vous réchaufer.”

Non; merci beaucoup!” I managed to utter with all the dignity I could muster, “In Canada where I come from we prefer cool water to swim in.”  No kidding, that’s the best I could come up with but I wasn’t about to go in and face all those tourists who’d surely snap more photos.  As well, how can you explain that you went in to retrieve a mere sports jacket?

Holding my head high, arm in arm, we marched off in quick-step unison.   Coming to the car I automatically  reached for the keys and that’s when I immediately realized that my imprudent bravado had an unsuspected reward, in fact a felicitous outcome of no small measure.  ”Here,” I disingenuously claimed, “here’s why it was imperative for me to rescue the jacket.”  I held out the contents of the right side pocket – the car keys, my wallet with all my IDs, driver’s license and almost $1000 in French money when it meant a good week of traveling expenses.  The day before I’d cashed in a Traveler’s Cheque for that amount.  The bills were just a little wet around the edges but otherwise all was in good shape.  My jacket has zippers on the side pockets and without consciously thinking about it I had closed it almost totally; what marvelous design.  Notice I said, ‘has’ as I still have it but only occasionally wear it so as to prolong its useful life.  Quickly I swallowed a couple of  2-22 pills (strong Canadian aspirin) and would you believe it I escaped the watery incident without so much as a sneeze.

Feeling no pain in the warm car and so it appeared nothing more than a casual afterthought I later asked if she’d had any concerns seeing me in a situation, “Fraught with danger!” I was definitely exaggerating yet wanted her to feel a little guilt for my enforced swim, but only a tad.  Cleverly nimble, Hélène neatly deflected the implied guilt by claiming to have thought while taking this photo, “What a man!” And that she’d genuinely felt a very warm feeling for me for being so bold as to jump in to repair her unfortunate mishap. My ego satisfied I merely nodded in agreement.

For better or worse one constant in my life has been a sense of loyalty, not just to people but to things as well, for example I drive my cars until they are done, period.  This jacket traveled around the world with me; it’s a stylish black, easy to fold, light yet keeps me warm on all but the coldest days.  In other words I feel a great deal of affection for it and of course having saved the beginning of our European wanderings means I owe it my loyalty.  The day it no longer is wearable it will be honorably retired but remain in my clothe closet as a reminder of when I was young and foolish, alright, not that young.

Almost twenty years later, my splendid Coq Sportif yet keeps me snug and warm,  This pic was taken last year in Stanley Park after a rare Vancouver snowfall.

Now you are privy to this rather odd anecdote, one that until now only a handful of people had heard about and even they weren’t in on the whole truth.  I always made it a point to underline that I needed to retrieve the keys and my wallet.  The unvarnished truth is I went in for my jacket and nothing else as I’d never thought, not for one second, about the vital contents of that one pocket.  Loyalty, in whatever form it is expressed can only be rewarded, do you not agree?  And come to think of it and please don’t think it a dark thought, rather a happy one – when I’m laid out for the final journey, no ill-fitting suit please, but  let me be decked out in my lovely Coq Sportif jacket, I’ll surely feel snug and safe!

Châteaux de la Loire


Wandering through a diverse countryside that combines bucolic charm spiced with unexpected dramatic vistas is a passionate journey for anyone who appreciates a glorious ancient history, inspiring architectural achievements, a sparkling cosmopolitan culture coupled with a respected and well-maintained artisan class, world-class cuisine and unequalled array of wines.  Of course I’m referring to France, and in all humility I claim it’s the unvarnished truth and without apology for loudly proclaiming my love for the beautiful country of my birth.  I will now share with you some of the highlights I discovered touring the dream-like Châteaux de la Loire, in particular Chambord, Chenonceau and Blois.  There are dozens to be seen and admired but I will concentrate on only three and a few miscellaneous photos that I consider interesting enough to be included.

The Loire Valley is an outstanding landscape of great beauty and a cornucopia of cultural jewels.  The river meanders through historic towns and villages, pleasant cultivated lands, abundant vineyards that produce fine Rosé wines and of course has a world-wide reputation for being home to dozens of splendid castles once the playground of French nobility and today the custodian of architectural splendour, art and history.  It’s worthy to note the Loire Valley is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Chenonceau’s unique design and its splendid Grand Gallery, sixty metres long and six wide spans the River Cher; it was the setting for many a glorious royal gala.

The chateau was designed by Philibert Delorme who combined a Renaissance flair with Gothic architecture, it was completed in 1430.  After several owners it was seized by the Crown and eventually Henry II offered the chateau to his mistress Diane de Poitiers – some gift!   Unfortunately for her upon the death of her royal lover, she was expelled by a jealous Catherine de Medici, then Regent of France while awaiting her son’s Francis II assencion to the throne.  She then made it her favourite residence adding more formal gardens and extended the gallery as seen in the photo across the width of the river Cher.  Sumptuous parties and the first ever fireworks display in France attested to her affection for the elegant castle.  The romantic shenanigans continued when yet another mistress took over in 1624, Gabrielle d’Estrées, Henry IV’s favorite courtesan; no wonder it is often referred to as ‘Le château des dames’.   Since 1840, the chateau is classified a Monument historique and the second most visited after Versailles.

A touch of esoteric lore – during WWII, one bank of the Cher River was under Nazi occupation and the other side under the control of the Vichy Government.  Many people escaping the German Gestapo, Jews especially and hunted underground fighters, were surreptitiously  guided to relative safety across the Grand Gallery, a rather handsome escape route all things considered.

 Chic, refined and generous, a fine broth of a king!

One of the  classically  laid out gardens for the guests to stroll about as they played out their romantic dalliances.

The stables – I should be so lucky to have such digs!

At the very first dazzled glance, the out-wordly royal Château de Chambord will  seduce the most jaded traveler.  I’ve had the good fortune to admire the Taj Mahal up-close and to my mind this imaginative, oriental-tinged, cupola dominated structure is every bit it’s equal in unsurpassed architectural fireworks minus the crowds, not a mean advantage.  The North façade is the most familiar view, especially appreciated by  photography enthusiasts who depending on the sun’s angle can almost always count on lovely reflections in the facing moat, built strictly for decorative purposes – a two for one shot.

The building took twenty years to build by King François I so he could be near his married mistress (what else might have been expected from the nobility in those hedonistic days?) but was never completed.  Imagine this was conceived as a ‘hunting lodge’ as the king maintained his royal residences not far off at Blois and Amboise castles.   The massive structure is built in Renaissance style and although never proven some of the interior might have owned its appearance to none other than Leonardo DaVinci who was befriended by François I – in fact, the ultimate Renaissance artist lived out his life nearby at Clos Lucé a comfortable manor  house  adjacent to the Chateau Amboise where his benefactor and close friend François 1 often resided.  He is buried at the Chapelle de St. Hubert in Château Amboise.   As a personal observation I find it incomprehensible the government, artistic community or the Italian people in general have not set forth a hue and cry for a return to his native soil of the physical remains of surely one (if not the greatest) of the most accomplished  artist, inventor and philosopher ever.  Let me quote Benevenuto Cellini, a splendid artist in his own right who said, “There had never been another man born in the world who knew as much as Leonardo, not so much about painting, sculpture and architecture, as that he was a great philosopher.”

The park grounds are considerable and if one takes the time to stroll along the numerous verdant lanes there are always splendid photo-ops to be captured, as you may appreciate below.

The chateau is set in the midst of a 13000 acre game reserve where red deer are free to roam; it is enclosed by a 31 kilometre wall (21 miles).  In comparison Vancouver’s Stanley Park is a mere 1000 acres and New York’s Central Park is measured at a paltry 843 acres.  Okay, the latter two mentioned are within city boundaries, and not bad at all all things considered.

The immense natural reserve park features grassy and forested areas; a secluded observation cabin for photographers or simply to sit quietly, watch and recharge one’s depleted batteries.

Viewed from the South Facade the chateau’s special features are enhanced by their proximity.  Whether this is the original main entrance I don’t know other than that’s the visitor’s entry point, either way it’s ‘formidable’ from any angle.

The elaborate roofscape has often been compared to the skyline of a town and it is a fact that Francois I commissioned the construction to have the appearance of minaret dominated Constantinople.  The chateau features 128 metres of façade with more than 800 sculpted columns; within there are 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces and some 84 staircases; it may be that the main double-helix open staircase, a spectacular centerpiece of the building was designed by Da Vinci although it is more conjecture than a proven fact.

 

This photo is à propos of nothing except I have a great affection for clouds with  ’personality’ that enhance my idea of a great background for a photo.

The back part of the Château de Blois seen from the central town level.  I never fail to take plenty of shots of the magnificent evergreens that provide such a lovely  frame.
Seen from the upper level, the plaza and entrance to the castle.
The medieval castle was constructed over several centuries, beginning in the 13th finally completed in the 17th – it’s comprised of several buildings set around one principal courtyard.  With 564 rooms and 75 staircases and a fireplace in each room, including 100 bedrooms for guests and retainers it is one of the largest castles in all of France.
The chateau is classified a ‘Monument Historique’ and a great tourist draw for the town of Blois the present owner.
It was past closing time but there was a gap in the gate so I snuck in just so I could snap the one photo of the famed stairwell.
 A very familiar site, the chateau’s most renowned feature is the famed spiral staircase in the Francois I wing.
 
Blois with a population of 50 000 is a prosperous town that as in many European cities close off streets to car traffic either in central shopping or historically important areas.  Marvelous – why we are so damn in love with cars in North America always baffles me.  Worse, when given a choice many merchants don’t want to bar car traffic for fear of losing business as I discovered for myself when it was proposed for Stevenson, British Columbia, (shame on you, dim-witted merchants).  Stupidity is a kind word  as in so many other instances of urban mismanagement by uninspired city and business leaders.
Over this ancient bridge across the wide river and on to Beaune and Dijon – see you there very soon.  A bientôt!

Dol de Bretagne and countryside

Driving almost aimlessly around the Bretagne and Normandie countryside you’re bound to come across charming homes, scenic farms and pastoral vistas that are enchanting to the eye.  When you set out, be sure to look for the Departmental roads indicated by roadside panels (D + number on yellow background); just follow your nose and let your sense of direction take you more or less where you’d like to wind up.  I love to let ‘chance’ take me along for a ride that almost always leaves me breathless and delighted at my good fortune.  Rigidly planning an excursion to a specific location is too limiting, it robs you of a sense of adventure; to my mind it lacks the charm of impromptu discoveries and the opportunity to interact close and personal with locals.  Country folks are invariably courteous and very interested in your interest in them.   Some of the most memorable memories I hold dear happened by such happenstance meetings.  Mont St. Michel is often seen in the distance as a constant reminder of its protection over the land; the countryside is almost garden like in it’s greenness and meticulous care.
Normandie is justly reputed throughout the country as a haven for fat cows that provide rich milk that in turn produces marvellous cheeses of all styles for all taste buds, including the international favourite Camembert, soft and flavour-loaded Boursin, delicious Pont-l’Eveque and too many others to mention.  Do as I do, always have a fresh baguette and a bottle of good red in the trunk; drop a blanket on the grass, there’s always a time and a place for an impromptu picnic.
“Hey, comment-ça va? How’s it going down?”  ”Mooo-meuh (French dialect) … don’t ask, I’ve been chewing the cud all day and I’m blowing methane like you’d not believe, no bullshit!”
Just wandering and around a corner I came on to this rather peculiarly designed private residence, but home is where the heart is, right?
Since I was a youngster, I was totally taken in by Alphonse Daudet and his wonderful collection of short stories titled ‘Lettres de mon moulin’.  It was the beginning of a lifelong love affair  as ever since I’ve been totally infatuated with windmills.  There are some to be seen across the French ‘paysage’ but it seems more so in the Normandie and Bretagne regions.  Incidentally, somewhere during one of my peregrinations I spotted a well-maintained windmill a few  hundred metres off the road.  It was just sitting there, no one about or any signs indicating it was special, but curious as always I drove in the dirt lane and much to my delight discovered one humble plaque that claimed here was the windmill that had been the inspiration for Daudet’s classic.  I could have kissed the old stones; well, I did caress them. Incidentally this one behind me could have been its twin.  Notice the wings have unfurled their canvas and is just awaiting a fresh wind from the sea to start rotating and putting the grinding machinery in action.
This well-kept windmill was still  in working condition and in fact one could buy several types of  flour right on the spot.  The distinctive aroma of fresh ground wheat  wafting in the atmosphere, the mechanical sounds of the grinding apparatus imbued me with a warm feeling, the same as when cradling a freshly baked loaf of bread.  As well there was a friendly little restaurant that provided food for the patio or to be taken out to one of the picnic tables under a shady tree.  Just a lovely, joyful atmosphere.
Now this stone dwelling was much more in tune with my own vision of what I’d like to own as a home, but it wasn’t for sale – quel dommage!
Imagine the average price of a family home constructed of 1/2 inch particle plywood, stucco-plastered and likely to leak within a few years (solid brick is almost unknown)  in Vancouver would buy me two of those and still have lots left over for landscaping.  Who are they kidding in Vancouver? How can things get so far our of whack and into the land of crazy! Indeed what are the natives smoking? I know B.C. weed is reputed but can it be so  potent to totally distort reality?
A lovely combination of colors, fragrance and warm, old stones announced a friendly welcome to the passerby.  The sensitive dwellers who provided such loveliness have to be the finest of human beings, n’est ce pas? 
Check out the self-assured strut, the panache of the unchallenged king of the farmyard, and here’s a cockadoodledoo to you, well you’ll perfectly understand why the French have chosen the ‘cock’ as it’s national symbol, especially appropriate for ‘sporting’ purposes.  The silly goose knows enough to look on from afar and keep it’s envy private.
Plump French geese will make for a perfect New Year’s roast dinner.  Little do they know how appreciated they will be; finger licking good.
Any farmer will tell you geese are more efficient as ‘guard dogs’ than Fido who in theory is the holder of the title but in reality far  more interested in chewing on a juicy bone and at night happy to stay in  the ‘dog house’.  By the way if a goose takes a dislike to you it will nip with that sharp and sturdy beak and whack you with its wings for good measure; they are fearless or too dumb to fear but the result is the same.  My advice, stay clear unless it’s a juicy breast on your plate.
Without doubt the water lily is my favorite flower; I admire its ‘aloofness’, the royal bearing, the cool green and perfect shape of its leaves, the subtle but superlative aroma and yet it is anchored to the mud below.  A poet-philosopher might conjure up a spiritual analogy, a morality lesson not to judge whence a person springs forth but to wait and observe what time brings forth to the world.  But, I’m not a poet-philosopher so I’ll leave the definitive morality tale for a more creative person than I am to engender and set out for all of us to learn its valuable lesson.
From a slight rise one can observe  the surrounding beautifully laid out and neat farm houses and cultivated fields.
Dol de Bretagne is a fine example of a town that has conserved its medieval heritage.
Saint-Samsonm seen from across a lush corn field – the countryside is blessed with abundant farm produce.
Inside the old part of town – cobble stones streets paved several centuries ago.
Fortified Saint-Samson Cathedral was built during the 13th Century and as well as being a ‘house of God’ it also was built with a defensive vocation keep in mind that in medieval times one never knew who’d be raiding or attempting to conquer.  Over the centuries it was captured by Norman raiders, Vikings, from across England, and the Francs too, finally the French  and troops during the bloody end of 18th C. Révolution.
The interior is more awe-inspiring than what I was expecting to see from the outside.
Stepping inside the first view is grandiose with a surprising three-tier nave.
An ornately carved pulpit from which lofty perch the padre offers his sermon.
Remarkable stain-glass window over the main apse.
A closer  look at the magnificent design, the detailed pictorial to the glory of God.
A ‘menhir’ famed for being about around 4500 years old; it’s called a ‘dol’ in the Celtic language, only a couple of kilometres on a hilltop (Champ Dolent) overlooking the town, hence ‘Dol de Bretagne’ was almost an unavoidable name to be adopted by the ancient town’s people.
This monolith stands almost 10 metres above ground and it’s said another 20 metres below.  This legendary rock approximately 125 metric tons, its surface carefully shaped and hauled an amazing 4 kilometres, up the hill was a monumental achievement by people who obviously relished a challenge.  The fact is that it wouldn’t be an impossible transportation feat today, in no way, shape or form.  There are several legendary tales that give it even more appeal;  for example it would be the Devil enraged by the beauty of the cathedral hurled this as he might have a javelin but missed by two kilometres, thank God.  Embedded as it is, it is also calculated to sink down of its own weight a few centimetres each year; when the last of  the menhir has sunk out of sight, it will mark the end of the world.  Oy, but wait, so far it’s calculated to have gone down a big 5 centimetres (2 inches) so that there’s yet time for all of us to repent!
 Normandie’s mild climate and lush grasses are ideal grounds for thoroughbreds.
 Okay, I confess to having an unreasonable affection for donkeys – they are so darn adorable and undoubtedly they’d be the first guests in my hobby farm.
Indeed, they are friendly, easy to get along with  (even if they happen to be not too bright), hard working if you care to abuse them that way (in India I actually witnessed ONE donkey hauling a carriage with no fewer than fourteen people crammed aboard.  Poor thing – and yet head down it kept on moving.  In the future, I’ll do a photo essay on India and prove it.
A serene pastoral scene, and who can resist two little mischievous new-born lambs staring at you? Soon after they went on a wild gambol, bucking like rodeo broncos; baa-baa! it was simply delightful.
No explanation required to praise the beauty of this wild poppies field – Monet would have had a ‘field day’ stroking oils on a canvas.  What masterpiece might he have created?
One of  numerous sandy beaches, uncrowded and perfectly clean.  The coast line of Bretagne and Normandie offer secluded and amenable swimming outlets.  One word of advice; often these are out of view although perhaps not more than a few dozen metres over a sandy dune.  When you spot a sign indicating a beach, get out of the car and take a gander over the crest and you’ll be splendidly rewarded with just such a jewel as depicted here.
See you on the next trip, who knows where but it’s sure to be fun.  Bon voyage and may your Guardian Angel look after you as well as Saint Michel looks after his abbey.